Good Quality for AWWA C509 Resilient Seat Gate Valve OS&Y Bangladesh Manufacturer
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GMK Resilient seat gate valve is mostly used for water industry, especially for drinking water. Compared with traditional metal seat gate valve, it’s cleaner because of epoxy coating internally and externally, safer as rubber coated wedge guarantee bible tight leakage, and saver as few metal material used. WRC standard can be met when choosing all WRC approved rubber and coats when required.
2” ~ 24” (DN50-DN600)
Cast Iron. Ductile iron
Cast Iron. Ductile iron+ NBR, EPDM
-Design: ANSI/AWWA C509
-Face to Face: ASME B16.10 / ISO 5752 3 Series
-End Flange: ASME B16.1, ASME B16.42
-Test: ANSI/AWWA C509
-Marking: MSS SP25
-Special: NACE MR-01-75
-Rubber coated wedge
-Full and straight bore
-Epoxy coated internally and externally
-SS bolts with plastic sealed
-Hand wheel or cap operated
-Gear operated (optional)
Learn how to use a single wire to operate two valves with a Double Switch.
The Double Switch Uses One Wire to Power Two Different Zone Valves by Alternately Operating Them With Every Other Cycle of the Controller.
The First Time it Receives Power it Operates the First Zone Valve and the Next Time the STation is Turned On it Switches to the Second Valve.
Both Valves Will Run for the Same Amount of Time.
Available for purchase at http://yardoutlet.com
I replaced this grill with another like it. Drilled the spuds this time and ithas blue flame. See new video here: http://youtu.be/bJtu9IPOTjc
The gas-pipe fits/matches with the propane piping. Here’s an “in use” picture: http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/253881_1575192159587_1829098314_959465_3457440_n.jpg.
Where the hose comes out of the regulator its 3/8″ black pipe (no need for the $60 conversion kit). The tips where propane goes into the flame tubes can either be drilled out or removed These are removed, and imho that’s better (a friend who does it ‘professionally’ as a 1 person HVAC home business drills over liability concern).
Since this grill has 2 sides I used both regulator-hose-inlets separately via a T.
My wife says its fine for cooking. She did like the propane a little better cause it was hotter with a lower flame. But she was going through a tank every couple weeks and they are a PITA to replace – and way more expensive. And another thing is this grill is still “alive” cause its NG. The some of the rear-rail flame-guides between the flame-tubes have rusted off (cheep spot welds). They were there to gets 1 burner to light from another which it does just fine anyway using NG. All in all I’m very glad I did this conversion.
The NG hookup is 3/8″ (remove the hose from the LP regulator and into female NG line). The only “conversion” needed is to remove (or drill them and reinstall) the gas-jets. Those are brass fittings at the inlet to the flame tubes there’s a little slide-window there. A friend who does it “professionally” says he drills out the gas-jets so the flame can’t go as high as mine can, for safety/liability reasons. It really is that simple.
He said he drills the fittings as big as he can while still having threads – that looks like somewhere between 9/64″ and 5/32″.